Repairing a SVA HD4208TIII-PDP Plasma TV
UPDATE: It turns out that the fix I describe here wasn’t permanent and the TV stopped working again. I thought it would still be useful to show what I’ve done:
I have a SVA HD4208TIII-PDP plasma TV that was bought about 4 years ago. All of sudden last week it refuses to switch on. When you try to turn it on with the remote, the red power light would go off, as normal, and then you would hear a bunch of clicking sounds, but nothing after that. To try again, I would have to switch off the TV using the power button on the right side of the TV, but regardless of the number of times I try, I just wouldn’t come on.
After some research, this seems to be a common problem with this model. Some people claim to be able to get it to work after several attempts, but the next time they switch off it wouldn’t come on again. Some also claim to get it work if they unplug the TV for several hours or days, but I tried that it still wouldn’t work.
I did some more research and found it that it is a problem with the power board. You can buy a replacement for $350, but seeing that a new plasma TV can be had for about $700, it doesn’t seem worth it. Also, I would hate to buy a new power borad and find that the problem is something else. I saw one post where some did buy the power borad and the TV worked for a few months and then stopped working again. If anyone is interested, you can buy the power boards here: http://www.shopsva.com/hdpobo.html
I found a post where some identified three components that can be replaced to solve the issue:
- 2 Relays
- 1 Transistor
I figured that this would be a cheap way to try and fix the TV and if it doesn’t work, I wouldn’t have wasted too much money. The rest of the article describes the process of replacing these components.
Please note that this involves desoldering and resolding the components. If you attempt this, you do so at your own risk!!!
My first task was to open up the TV and get the part numbers. Be careful when you do this as the screws that are on the back actually hold the front screen in place. I laid the TV flat on a bed with the face down. After opening up the back and removing the brace that holds the stand, you need to identify the power board. Here is a picture showing the power board:
When you remove the board, take note of all connectors. I used the above picture to help me reattache the cables. Here is a view of the borad showing the location of the relays and the transistor. The transistor is attached to a heatsink so that is all you can actually see in this view:
Here is a closer view of the components and you can actually see the tarnsistor:
The part numbers are as follows:
- Relays: JW1AFSN-DC5V
- Transistor: TOP224Y
The next challenge was to find the parts to buy. A lot of places wanted you to buy them in quantities of 100. I eventually managed to find the relays from a company called DigiKey. Each relay was $2.11. If you need it, their part number is 255-1725-ND. Here is a direct link to the part
The transistor was harder to find, but I managed to find a seller on Ebay selling 4 for $10.75 including shipping.
The relays came first so I decided to try them and see if that solved the problem. I unsoldered the original relays and soldered in the new ones. I then tried the TV and lo and behond, it started to work again.
The transistors will come later this week, but I wouldn’t bother to replace it unless the TV stops working again. I also plan to buy a few spare relays so I can do the same repair in the future if necessary.
I hope this information is useful to others in the same situation. It feels great fxing a 42″ plasma TV for just $5.00 is parts, especially when you consider the alternative was to buy a whole new poer board for $350.00
I actually did buy a replacement 42″ plasma for the family room, but now that this one is repaired, my wife and I now and a plasma in our bedroom 
—————————————–
Photo showing capacitors C8007, C8008, C8016, and C8017
January 7th, 2009 at 12:45 am
hey there i try to replace to relay like u did an i try to turn the tv on but its still doin the same thing …try to turn on tv with the remote an nuthin happen but it does click….do u think itll b the transistor?if u can help me out thatll b great….thanks…
brian
January 7th, 2009 at 7:05 am
You’ll notice from my update at the top of the article that what I had done didn’t fix the problem on a permanent basis. I’m at a loss as to what to try next.
January 8th, 2009 at 1:37 pm
Hi derek I saw your post about how to fix this plasma tv I follow your steps,but after,received and installed, the relays,the problem still, now my homework is to find the transistor I look on ebay, with the # but nothing show’s up if you have more info whereI can get it, I really appreciate….. I dont wanna spent to much money to fix this so thanks for your help , If after all this nothing happen ,I have to buy a new TV then …hahahaha thanks ….
January 9th, 2009 at 1:00 am
Hi Derek, I have the same panel with the same fault. I have also noticed a 4 pin connector loose that is located near the external inputs (inside the unit itself). Did you find this with your tv? Thanks
January 9th, 2009 at 7:03 am
Hmmm…I didn’t notice any loose connectors. I’ll see if I can open up my TV again this weekend and take a look.
January 10th, 2009 at 7:58 am
I had the same problem, spent the money to have the power board sent to me, had a local replace the board for $100, and now after 9 months the screen goes black. I still get the sound, but no screen functions. Any ideas. Great job, and thanks for all the posts.
February 6th, 2009 at 4:19 pm
Found also a burned bridge Rectifier location D8028.
The other parts that were posted werent Bad on mine.
Replaced it once but it opened the diode again. Something is tank the circuit. I think The transformer Location T-8003 maybe a good starting point. Will Post as I find out. Burned the bridge almost instant.
Tony
February 10th, 2009 at 9:59 am
I found that the samsung components used samwha capacitors. In CPU Logic boards I’ve noticed that they fail quite often. Also In my SVA repair I’ve noticed Bulging Caps in the Power Supply & Driver Boards. Replaced them(Very Hard 2 find 105 deg.c caps) with nippon chemi-con capacitors & that did the trick. hope this helps!! check badcaps.net
February 10th, 2009 at 3:16 pm
Keith, thanks for mentioning the samwha capacitors and also the site badcaps.net.
I took a closer look and it seems that the two samwha capacitors are indeed bulging at the top. These are C8007 and C8008.
I found someone on Ebay selling some so I ordered it and should hopefully have them in a few days.
My fingers are crossed.
February 15th, 2009 at 4:33 am
hi guys. my SVA will run for about 30 to 45 minutes then shuts off,as if its overheating. is this a power board problem or would cooling fans take care of my problem?
THANX
February 15th, 2009 at 5:33 pm
Derek,
I am having the same problem and noticed my caps are bulging as well. Did you find Nippon’s as Keith recommended? Also the covers were all but off the top of C8016 & C8017. I assume I can replace them with Nippon’s of the same value?
February 15th, 2009 at 5:44 pm
These are the ones I bought:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=200306567915
They should arrive in the next few days we we’ll see how it goes.
The auction was for 5 so if necessary, I’ll use them for C8016 and C8017 also.
February 15th, 2009 at 7:46 pm
while on the three green leds (8001,8002,8003 ) for the relays come on and stay on for about30 minutes then the red “alarm” led(8004) comes on, kicking leds 8001&8002 off. 8003 & 8004 stay lit. any clue as to what is wrong????
February 15th, 2009 at 8:13 pm
can you give the general area of C8007,C8008,C8016,C8017???????
i’m just a novice tinkerer but all i can find are L8007,L8008,L8016,L8017
February 15th, 2009 at 8:17 pm
DUH!! FOUND ‘EM
February 15th, 2009 at 8:22 pm
I added a photo at the end of the article showing the 4 capacitors. It’ll be easier to see the labels from underneath
February 15th, 2009 at 9:52 pm
do you think replacing the caps would help my problem with alarm led
THANX
February 15th, 2009 at 9:56 pm
I’m afraid I don’t know. I’m no expert at this by any means and right now I’m just trying to replace any parts that “look bad”.
Like you, I’m just a novice tinkerer!!
February 15th, 2009 at 10:06 pm
C8070 is the only one that looks bulged could that be the problem?
February 19th, 2009 at 9:48 am
I replaced the two capacitors I thought were bulging, but it didn’t make a difference.
I decided to remove the casing from the old capacitors and it turned out that it was only the top cover that was bulging. The capacitors themselves were fine so I’m not surprised that my replacing them didn’t make a difference.
I’m back to square one. It looks as though my only option now is to buy a whole new power board if I want to get the plasma working again.
February 20th, 2009 at 9:07 pm
i guess I’ve just joined your club. My SVA 4208t just wouldn’t power on tonight. It has given problems before, but I would just unplug it and then it would work. Not tonight. Do any of your responders have access to the schematic on it. I had the bulging Cap problem on my computer and replacing all of them fixed that problem. Tomorrow I will take the SVA down and give it a look.
February 21st, 2009 at 10:02 am
I purchased all four of the capacitors, C8007, C008, C8016 and C0817 from Digi-key I will let you know if I have any success, although based on Dereks results I’m not optimistic. I am having the same issue the green led’s light for about 15 seconds and then the red alarm LED8004 comes on and LED8001 and 8002 go out. Which I guess is why Derek may have replaced the relays initially.
February 21st, 2009 at 3:07 pm
out of desperation I tried the remote one more time. To my surprise, it came on. so I am leaning toward a bad relay not making full contact intermittantly. I will look at replacing them soon.
March 26th, 2009 at 10:23 am
Hi. I picked up a non-working SVA 42-inch plasma as my first hobby project. After reading your site and others (like fixya.com), I have looked for different issues but can’t seem to identify the problem. Here’s what I’ve done so far:
**Tried replacing the three fuses that I could find. Two on a small board connected to the power cord connector, and one on the power board. I thought this did the trick because the tv turned on (I played a DVD for an hour+ and then shut it off). But when I tried to turn it on again the next day, it took 3-4 tries before the tv turned on. I put the old fuses back in and the tv still sometimes turns on, so I don’t think the fuses are the issue.
**Looked at the capacitors on the power board and on other boards (that are visible without removing them) and I could not see any bulging or leaking caps.
**Looked at the solder points on the power board, but these seem to be fine (none appear to be cracked).
I started to wonder if one of the other boards is causing the problem. It seems like the power board starts up, tries to get something done with the other boards connected, can’t do it, and then shuts down as a safety feature. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the other cables on the power board, and it appears that the SY and SX connectors (in the upper-right corner of the power board) when disconnected do not cause the red Alarm light on the power board to light up. So I’m wondering if there could be a problem with one of those boards. I noticed that the green light on the logic board does light up (the logic board is just to the left of the power board), so I assume that the power board is functioning properly (but I could be wrong).
What can cause the tv to sometimes turn on and sometimes not? I plan on posting this to fixya.com and see what answers come back.
March 26th, 2009 at 11:34 am
I think the power board is definitely the culprit. From the research I’ve done, those you bought replacement power boards all managed to get their plasma working again.
April 10th, 2009 at 5:48 pm
Hello Derek, I just followed in your foot steps ( kinda) I just replaced the 2 relays amd the transistor ( that was a pain to remove) and am about to put it all back together and hope it works, even if its for a little while, but I did notice areas tht appeared a little brown tarnished prob from overheating: C8076 C8064 L8013 CON8001 U8018 D8023 & D8024, I just thought I would make note incase this to is an issue.
April 11th, 2009 at 3:47 pm
Hey guess what I found the schematics, which I dont understand but maybe it will help you, who then in turn can help me. ( Put it in easy english) Thank you and heres the link, Christine
http://support.gateway.com/s/Manuals/HomeTheater/GTW-P42M203.pdf
April 12th, 2009 at 4:58 pm
I have the same problem and have the TV apart on the carpet. I have checked all the voltages from the power supply in the few seconds that the power stays on and have found that the VSET voltage is about 170 when it should be about 220. I can hear the switching circuit trying to start up and a clicking while the circuit is engergized. Did disconnect the conector that the VSET is connected to and the same result I can see that the caps are exploded on the top but if you remove the plastic top the aluminum is flat. Not sure if I sould just replace the caps and hope for the best or replace the switching transistor for this voltage or both. Any suggestions? Thank You! Bill B
April 17th, 2009 at 11:11 am
Since my post in January, I have played with it a couple of times, once for the Super Bowl, got it working for the entire game, and the next morning, and then that eveing gone, no picture. Then again for my daughters birthday party for them all to play Wii, again worked all day and next morning then got home from work and nothing. My problem is that the screen is going blank, no screen functions, although I still get sound, this after replacing the power supply board (which works great now), but no picture. Any ideas,
Thanks
June 10th, 2009 at 9:19 am
Hey I replaced the relays before reading all of these posts…and of course I still have the same problem…turn it on and hear a couple clicks and NOTHING…. any updates on the other ideas???
June 12th, 2009 at 1:34 pm
I went ahead and ordered the new power board for $139. I will be replacing it tonight after I get off work…I’ll let yall know how it goes
June 20th, 2009 at 2:29 pm
Replaced the power board and is working like a champ!
December 5th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
Derek,
I brought this 42″ but with fault. Can you tell me what is the value of the 2 capacitor on top of the board C8016 and C8017, my board seems being repaired, it hooked up 2 more 1000uf capacitor in series, and they all pop their top.
Can you help buy letting me know the original value?
Thank you
Ed
December 14th, 2009 at 12:21 am
The value of the 2 capacitors C8016 & C8017 are 330 MicroFarad rated at 450 VDC. C8007 & C8008 are 1500 MicroFarad rated at 250 VDC. All my caps are “puffy” but I don’t think this is the problem. I will replace the relays and the transistor, but will probably end up ordering and replacing the whole LJ44-00025A Power Board for $139 because I want my Superbowl!!!! I’m an electronics technician by trade dealing mostly with Radar, digital computers & comm gear, so this should be easy stuff for me. The toughest part was moving the TV to the bedroom, plopping it on the spare bed & ripping into it. I put a cheater cord on it & punched the power button. LED 8003 lit green. Pressed the remote ON and LED 8002 then LED 8001 lit GREEN for 3 seconds and relays K8001 & K8002 clicked & then went out while ALARM LED 8004 lit RED. Will let U know of my progress as I will NOT let this stinkin’ Chinese Junk get the better of me!!! Samsung my bu__.
December 14th, 2009 at 7:42 am
@Tim: I refuse to buy the whole power board as I’ve seen reports where it works for a while and then eventually stops working again. I’ll wait to see if you manage to make any progress.
December 14th, 2009 at 6:44 pm
I have the same problem.
In my tv - I think it may be the V-set voltage that is too low
When the tv won’t come on I have measured v-set and it is about 20+volts too low but when I eventually get it to power up the V-set is constant and at the correct voltage it should be - the values of the main voltages are marked on a sticker next to the board.
I hope to replace the 4 big caps 330uF x2 and 1500uF x2 as I think they are the cause, I have noticed that 3000hours is a common lifespan quoted for this type of cap, which is not much.
As for the 2 relays that are next to each other, the switch side has leds - surely if these are lit then the relays are okay?
January 22nd, 2010 at 9:54 am
@Tim: Where did you buy your power board?
January 25th, 2010 at 10:55 am
Derek,
What did you ultimately end up doing with your SVA?
I have the same problem with mine. Should I try replacing the Relays? Also the single fuse on my power board burns out, when I bypast it the TV stayed on but one of the heat resistors (the white ceramic domino shaped things.) got real hot and started smoking. I replaced that but like yours it does the exact same thing, it stays on for 5 seconds and then turns off. Like you I don’t want to replace the power board if it’s not a long term fix. Any help or advice would be great.
January 25th, 2010 at 11:13 am
I still haven’t done anything new with the SVA. I’m still finding it hard to spend $150+ to buy a power board with no guarantees of it working, either short term or long term.
Last year I bought a new plasma to replace it. I still have the SVA and will probably hold on to it for now just in case someone comes with with a low cost solution.
January 28th, 2010 at 6:24 pm
Derek, I’ve had similar problems, loss of video but full audio after 30 mins of operation. I reseated the power board which seemed to work for a while and have since moved my set to the basement which is much cooler and havn’t had any problems for last three months. I noticed on the photo of your power board that there appears to be connectors attached to the FAN supply , does your set have fans and if so where are they mounted? I bought my set as a refurbished and it did not have any fans. Part #s of fans would be appreciated.
January 28th, 2010 at 6:34 pm
Mine doesn’t have any fans
January 28th, 2010 at 7:23 pm
Thanks for taking the time to respond.
February 8th, 2010 at 1:19 am
Hi i got free tv from CL and it didnt turn on at all. i opened up and i can see 3 green leds and one red. when i try to turn on main power switch one green light turns on and when i press power botten one green turns one and red led but no vedio at all. there is 2 relays next to each other one turn one and one is not. I found out that Transistor: TOP224Y on heat sink is burn and i found one at digi key and order and i bought 2 from ebay from china, and im waiting for them to see if this will fix problem. that transister trigs relay for high power for plasma screen. so it sgould fix problem. i will update then i get them
June 5th, 2010 at 6:46 pm
I have a dead set. Only the green LED8003 lights, no clicks or noises at all., No swelled caps (execpt Plastic covers) all fuses and circuit protects check good but I dont have the remote.Does the tv fire with just the main button or do I need the remote.Any othefr Ideras.
Tom
July 22nd, 2010 at 3:21 pm
DOES ANY ONE HAVE A OWNERS MANAUL IF SO PLEASE CALL ME TOM 612-306-6403
July 31st, 2010 at 12:06 pm
We have a problem with SVA coming up and searching for signal. On screen display ok and all my voltages our present. VS, VA, Vscan and all voltages to main/digital PCB. Suspect main pcb any recomendations!!!! Anyone have schematic or owners manuel. Any help would be very helpful. Thanks Cell# 612-306-6403
August 4th, 2010 at 1:20 pm
I’m working on a SVA Plasma, model # HD4208TIII-PDP. The TV doesn’t power on, but the Standby LED on the outside front does come on. LED 8003 comes on, but not 8001, 8002, or the red LED 8004. Relays (RLY) 8001 and 8002 make no clicking, so I am assuming they are already blown. Fuses FB701, FB702, and F8001 never blew. No capacitors leaking, bulged, or blown. No apparent burning or heat damage anywhere on any board. After looking around on the net and at the gateway pdf above, I don’t think replacing the relays, etc will fix the problem directly. I think these common problems are the symptoms. LJ92-00579 (ie the board before the main power board) is suppose to be an AC filter. Too bad we are all amateurs here cause I would like to see the output of that AC. If that current does end up being conditioned then just follow the current until it does something it shouldn’t. If I had the equipment and the know how, that’s what I’d do.
March 20th, 2011 at 8:24 pm
Well, I just decided to join the crowd, because I had every problem described here. First it didn’t come on sporadically, sometimes it clicked sometimes it came on, then it went dead for what I thought was permanently. Aftrer a year and a half I decided I’d look at it. When I had it on the table it worked, then when I put it on the wall it failed again. After reading all the posts, I determined my CAPS weren’t it, the min switch wasn’t it, the relays weren’t it and I gave up and bought the board. It worked for another 6 months with the new board. Now its doing the same thing. First tme it failed I decided to never switch off the TV only the Cable Box. It worked consistently for a long time, but the other day I accidently turned it off with the TV remote instead of the cable box, and now it is permanently stuck not starting. Does the old blonk on the red light then it goes out then you hear the click of death and its off in never never land. Why can I turn it off with the cable box but not the actual TV remote and it keeps on working. Is it some sort of standby mode?
Could that be the big fix? Never take it off standby except to turn it on. i.e. never turn the tv remote off, only the cable box remote. Nobody can remember not to forever especially when you have to use the tv remote to turn up the sound. Somebody should have figured this out by now. We’re all a bunch of lame-o’s.
April 6th, 2011 at 6:18 am
disconnect all connectors except the AC in connector.
short pin1 with pin5 of connector CON8011 and the power boad will start to work .
if the red led light up it means one output of the power boad fault and the alarm circuit protected and shut down. the alarm circuit will monit each out put the power supply ,if one out put fault ,will shutdown the PFC circuit the red led light up.
so when power on ,test in fast way of the V5D, VFAN ,V12A, VSA, VT, VSCAN….(there is the test pad of these voltage on the board), then find which is fault and repair it , if someone need diagram ,pls send mail to me j7613216@yahoo.com.cn
May 5th, 2011 at 5:12 am
Good Morning Mr.Derek Lee-Wo ,
I send one email to Mr jwenjun but no answe me email.
I have a SVA HD4208TIII-PDP plasma TV and I have the same problem
I see that Mr jwenjun give him e-mail and that way I write you.
I think that you have a lot of experience on that TV kaind .
I need the diagram , if you can send it to me that will be a fantastic help.
If I find the diagram I can to find the problem a explaing how fix the problem
king Regards
Guillermo
May 5th, 2011 at 6:15 am
Good Mornig Mr Derek Lee-Wo
Sorry, my email addres was writing wrong
guillo@scarlet.an
June 17th, 2011 at 10:55 pm
Hello all you SVA piece of crap TV owners, I have come to the end of my rope with this over priced heap of junk plasma TV. I am not one to give up but I am so frustrated that the only thing that comes to mind is to try and go after the manufactures of this product that the only thing it is known for is not working. I am not sure how you go about starting a class action suite but I thinks its time we all join hands and go for it. I am going to start researching it and will post what I come up with. If any buddy out there is part of the legal system and can guide the way lets do it.
July 13th, 2011 at 1:07 pm
i mangaed to fix mine! its defenitly the power board. all you have to do is take it out of the tv and toss it in the freezer for a couple of hours(you should wrap it in an air tight bag to stop condensation. let it thaw make sure there is no residential water! i froze mine for like 2 hours and it turned on second try! im going to freeze it again overnight to make it last longer, hows that for a low cost solution!
July 18th, 2011 at 9:18 am
scratch that. turned it on today and got a really loud humming noise then a diode popped! anyone find a good source for power boards?